Sabatier Knives - Just What is the Difference?

Anyone who has searched online - or in a hardware store for that matter - for kitchen knives has been bound to find that magic word 'Sabatier' - but what exactly does it mean? This report seeks to disarm the minefield that is the world of Sabatier knives.

First things first: that name. 'Sabatier' in fact doesn't mean anyone in single - it's just a brand name. The problem is that this single brand name is used - quite legally - by some eight separate cutlery companies. This in fact doesn't make it easy for a prospective buyer to make an informed selection as Sabatier knives, though carrying the same name, aren't all equal by any means.

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So what is a Sabatier knife? Typically it is a kitchen knife of French design, much used by expert chefs for many years. Before the Second World War a type known as the 'Nogent', with a rats-tail tang imbedded in the handle, was used extensively but now the modern knives are fully-forged with a tang (the part that the deal with material is fixed to) running the faultless length of the deal with itself with the deal with 'cladding' riveted in place.

Sabatier Knives - Just What is the Difference?

Two materials are typically used to make Sabatier knife blades: stainless steel and high-carbon steel, though only Thiers-Issard now yield a range of carbon-steel blades. Both have their plus points - stainless steel retains its brightness almost indefinitely and has a long-lasting edge. Carbon steel soon becomes 'patinated' but carries an arguably finer edge that is in fact re-sharpened - unlike stainless steel that is difficult to re-sharpen to the level of carbon steel due to its greatest hardness.

Handle material is almost always black nylon - for toughness and stamina it does take some beating but isn't the best-looking choice. More animated handles are to be found on only a few of the Sabatier knives now made - notably the ones by Thiers-Issard that consist of such eye-catching materials as rosewood, natural horn and micarta.

So - how do you tell these knives apart? A prospective buyer may see Sabatier knives offered in many shapes and sizes and a bewildering range of prices - so how does anyone choose? Just remember the old adage - you get what you pay for. Dirt-cheap knives are hardly likely to be as durable as top-of-the-(price)-range ones - it's just not financially possible to make good things cheaply! So again - someone else old truism - always buy the very best you can afford. A top-line knife will last a lifetime - as will an high-priced pair of shoes, or car, or just about anyone built to a standard of quality - not a price.

The real way to tell these knives apart is - and this may seem odd - to leave the name 'Sabatier' out and join on the other part of the name. They all have them - no knife is made or marketed wth just the word 'Sabatier' on the tang or blade (if it is it's a cheap forgery and best left alone).

To stop all the wrangling over the word 'Sabatier', it was decided that the aforementioned firms could all use it - with the proviso that they had to put their own, very specific trade mark on the blade/tang also. So we have ( among others) K-Sabatier, Judge Sabatier, and Thiers-Issard Four-Star Elephant Sabatier (quite a mouthful but very much woth it!). This means that anyone buying these knives can promptly recognize the maker and not be confused by their buy just being someone else 'Sabatier' knife.

The knives themselves come in all shapes and sizes, from (typically) 3-inch blade tomato knives to huge 14-inch blade cooks' knives - truly fearsome objects worthy of Hollywood horror film! Yet all are just tools for the kitchen or table and, like al tools, have evolved over the years to a point where they can be miniature - if at all - improved. Yet it is so easy to succumb to temptation and turn one of these fine instruments into a price-driven 'utility' item.

So - in windup - remember a few points.

1. You get what you pay for - so don't but just on price!
2. Any associates own the right to use the Sabatier name - but some outshine others!
3. Stainless steel is durable and tough - but carbon steel ha the better edge and is in fact looked after.
4. A good knife should last a lifetime - not be tossed aside when the edge dulls (hence the carbon steel choice!)

Keep these points in mind when next you look to buy a chefs' or kitchen knife and you won't go far wrong!

Sabatier Knives - Just What is the Difference?

The Weird and phenomenal World of Wonky Cakes - How to Make and Decorate a Wonky Cake

Wonky cakes are designed to be exactly the opposite of primary cakes, with their right sides and flat tops. Instead Wonky cakes have both sloping sides and top. This type of cake is ordinarily round, and preferably a fruit or Madeira mix - and ideally four inches deep. An galvanic carving knife comes in handy when cutting cakes. It makes a clean cut and is quick to use. Some types of cake start to crumble when cut, so freezing them for an hour or two will make them easier to handle.

There are two ways of manufacture cakes look 'wonky' one make is more ultimate than the other, as not only are the cakes wider at the top than the bottom, but they also look as if they are about to topple over! To arrive at this shape place a thin cake board, 2" smaller than the size of the cake - or use a saucer, of the same size - in the centre of the top covering of the cake.

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Then, beginning at the edge of the card thought about cut the cake so that it gently slopes from the top down to the base, which should be end up 2" wider than the top. Next turn the cake upside down so now the wide covering is now at the top. Then cut the top edge of the cake into a small curve. Your cake should now look as if a primary plant pot.

The Weird and phenomenal World of Wonky Cakes - How to Make and Decorate a Wonky Cake

The recipe given above, is a relatively easy way of cutting cakes into a type of Wonky cake. A distinct style is to use the same make as above but with the cake cut at an angle - giving the it a topsy-turvy look. When cutting a cake to make it 'wonky' the angle of the cut must be quite acute, otherwise it will look as if the cake should to be level, but something has gone wrong! It is a good idea to make a paper pattern of the height and width of the cake and try out the angle on paper before you begin cutting. Using this recipe will leave a spare piece of cake - this can always be freezing and used for trifle or truffles in the future.

Another recipe entails cutting the cake at an angle, then removing and reverting the top section. For instance, on a four inch deep cake, make a small mark one inch from the base of the cake. On the opposite side of the cake - one inch from the top - make an additional one mark. If necessary, make any more marks to use as a cutting guide. Next thought about cut from the base mark to the top mark. Take off the top layer and coat the covering of the lowest layer with either apricot jam or butter cream, depending on the type of cake. Now, instead of replacing the top section back in its primary position, revert it, so that the narrowest edge of the top section now rests on the narrowest of the lowest layer of cake. The cake should now slope from two inches at one side to six inches at the other.

If Wonky cakes are being stacked on top of each other, place each cake, apart from the lowest cake, on a thin cake board he same size as the base of the cake. The cakes - apart from the top cake - will need plastic dowels in to reserve the weight of the cake, or cakes, above. Dowels are always cut level with the top covering of a cake - after it has been iced. And remember, the dowels on a Wonky cake should be cut at the same angle as the cake.

A Wonky wedding cake will be a talking point at any wedding - and in years to come, although other memories may fade, the Wonky Wedding Cake will always be remembered!

The Weird and phenomenal World of Wonky Cakes - How to Make and Decorate a Wonky Cake